Chris Nuttall-Smith, The Walrus

Chris Nuttall-Smith

The Walrus

Toronto, ON, Canada

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  • Unknown
  • The Walrus
  • The Globe and Mail
  • The AV Club

Past articles by Chris:

The Future of Food

At the 2015 Expo in Milan, Ikea unveiled a prototype for its kitchen of the future. The future, for all its promise, looked grimly similar to the now. The space featured fall-apart saucepans and flimsy plastic utensils that dangled from a pegboard, and its colour scheme fell somewhere on the continuum between “Ashtray” and “Deathly Pallor.” There were, however, some properly futuristic touches.… → Read More

Obituary: Restaurateur and oysterman John Bil believed in good, simple food

Mr. Bil, who died at 49, made an impact on the seafood trade in North America that’s likely to reverberate for years to come → Read More

The Restaurant that Cost Quebec Millions · t

The province's best-known chefs built their careers on local traditions. So why is the government subsidizing a big shot from France? → Read More

What Canadians understand about ketchup chips that Americans don’t

I’ve tried to remember when ketchup chips first came into my life, but it’s a little like trying to remember the first time I wet the bed. I grew up in the 1980s in Canada, a country that takes its wack-job salty snack foods seriously. Few of these are more revered than ketchup chips. For a while in → Read More

Sixteen Torontonians to watch in 2016

From international stages to political arenas, these Torontonians are promising to transform themselves and our city in the year ahead → Read More

Four beautiful kitchen gifts for the person with a stocked pantry

Four beautiful kitchen gifts, for the person on your shopping list whose pantry is already stocked → Read More

Chef’s upbringing runs throughout the menu at Toronto’s Rickshaw Bar

Ismaili beef curry, built from an entire day’s labour, has been in Pakistani-born Noureen Feerasta’s family for four generations → Read More

True North: This ambitious cookbook is a defining moment for Canadian cuisine

For his new cookbook, Montreal chef Derek Dammann travelled from coast to coast, eating cod innards in Newfoundland and chive blossoms in B.C. The result is True North, an ambitious yet approachable showcase for contemporary Canadian food → Read More

Music up, lights down: A good playlist is crucial to the dining experience

When I’m asked for restaurant recommendations, my first question in response has become, ‘What kind of music do you like?’ → Read More

Toronto restaurant Alo goes all in on high-end dining – and wins

High above Queen and Spadina, the cooking is virtuosic, the wine pairings are superb and the service is expertly choreographed → Read More

Meet the father-son farmer duo revolutionizing Ontario's shrimp business

Paul and Brad Cocchio, pioneers of First Ontario Shrimp, now spin out the most sublimely fresh and delicate-tasting jumbo shrimp ever served in this province → Read More

Raca Café and Bar: A talented Toronto chef who deserves better

The Toronto restaurant is tiny, the service slow and the menu dated – but the chef can cook → Read More

The Stella Artois Sensorium: Where does dinner end, and an experience begins?

The Stella Artois Sensorium is a bold attempt to change how we view eating out – if only the meal lived up to the presentation → Read More

Review: A.J. Somerset’s Arms explores the rise of gun culture in North America

The rise of gun culture in North America → Read More

Mamakas: By far the best Greek restaurant in Toronto

For Greek cooking to catch up with the times in the city, it would have to be properly Greek: great ingredients, prepared with skill. None of this hyphenated Canadian compromise.One year into its life, Mamakas, a modern taverna on Ossington Avenue, has begun to fulfill that promise → Read More

Città and A3 Napoli: One is pedestrian; the other does superb street food

While Città is good, if unspectacular, A3 Napoli – on the back of a deep-fryer – is poised to change the pizza game in town → Read More

Kasa Moto: Yorkville’s Japanese hot spot buries decent food under disastrous design

Yet, the greatest tragedy of Kasa Moto is that when you remove the design of the place from the picture, it’s a good (if entirely derivative) restaurant with a good kitchen and beautiful plates, and polished (or, at very minimum, charming) service. Eating here should be infinitely better than it is. → Read More

Cava: Novelty hasn’t worn at convivial Toronto midtown tapas spot

Neighbourhood classic Cava has maintained excellence through an ownership change while adding a downtown street-food satellite → Read More

R&D: The MasterChef-helmed restaurant is far from a winner in real life

Go for the dim sum, but don’t stay for the rest – you’re better off with any of the other spots in Chinatown → Read More

The good stuff (and where to get it)

Chris Nuttall-Smith ate his way through, around and near downtown Toronto searching for extraordinary international restaurants. These are some of his favourites. → Read More