Jiayang Fan, The New Yorker

Jiayang Fan

The New Yorker

New York, NY, United States

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Past articles by Jiayang:

The More-Is-More Pizzazz of Gugu Room

The Filipino-Japanese izakaya, on the Lower East Side, has an eclectic, expansive menu that includes porcine skewers portable enough to carry onto the dance floor. → Read More

Intrepid Playfulness at Nudibranch

The East Village restaurant, named for a category of sea slugs, offers an Asian-inflected prix-fixe menu with many choices, including fried frogs’ legs, shrimp with jazzy granola, and cauliflower three ways. → Read More

Asian American Women Fight Back

Jiayang Fan speaks with Asian American women and femmes who attended Soar Over Hate’s free self-defense class about safety and their personal concerns regarding the rise in violence against people of Asian descent. → Read More

Delightful Discoveries at Hawksmoor

For its ninth outlet, in Gramercy Park, the upscale U.K. steak-house group pulled out all the stops, with a menu featuring mammoth slabs of charcoal-grilled meat. → Read More

An Opulent Korean Tasting Menu, at Jua

At this prix-fixe restaurant, in the Flatiron district, the point seems to be less about making Korean flavors more palatable to the masses than about dislodging the cuisine from its association with proletarian presentation. → Read More

An Understanding of Millennial Asian Taste, at Hupo

The Sichuanese restaurant in Long Island City offers drink specialties including brown-sugar milk tea and an Uji-matcha latte, as well as such solid culinary standbys as Chongqing roasted fish and braised-beef noodle soup. → Read More

The Culinary Playground of Fulgurances Laundromat

The current chef-in-residence at this Greenpoint restaurant, which encourages a spirit of experimentation, is Aaron Rosenthal, a Boston native who was the executive chef of Clamato, a sister restaurant of Septime, in Paris. → Read More

The Merry Eclecticism of Thai Street Food at Soothr

The East Village restaurant has grown its menu to reflect offerings at the bustling food stalls of Bangkok’s Chinatown, such as Had Yai chicken and the shrimp-and-egg dish Koong Karee. → Read More

The Scent of Spices, and Vegan Pho, at Bánh

Nhu Ton, the chef of a Vietnamese restaurant on the Upper West Side, experimented for countless hours to make her traditional and her vegan pho taste like the place where she grew up. → Read More

The Evolution of an Empire, at Momofuku Ssäm Bar

The latest incarnation of David Chang’s maverick sophomore effort, which once defined the East Village food scene, now resides in an L.E.D.-lit behemoth in the South Street Seaport. → Read More

Chinese Dishes from Fertile Jiangnan, at CheLi

The East Village restaurant serves drunken crab, smoked fish, and other specialties, some of which were, according to lore, born of a Qing-dynasty emperor’s tours of the region south of the Yangtze River. → Read More

A Boldness of Vision at Little Mad

At the NoMad restaurant, the chef Sol Han’s Korean-inflected cuisine seems determined to establish its own identity, with dishes such as the crispy pig-ear salad, and rice with mushrooms and bone marrow scraped tableside. → Read More

Seafood Towers at Margie’s in the Rockaways

The flagship restaurant of the new Rockaway Hotel offers unfussy dishes such as mac and cheese, burrata, and mussels, as well as lobster toast and early-season heirloom tomatoes as fresh as the oysters and cherrystone clams. → Read More

The Gatekeepers Who Get to Decide What Food Is “Disgusting”

At the Disgusting Food Museum, in Sweden, where visitors are served dishes such as fermented shark and stinky tofu, I felt both like a tourist and like one of the exhibits. → Read More

The Atlanta Shooting and the Dehumanizing of Asian Women

Jiayang Fan writes about the mass murder of six Asian women in Atlanta and the rising rate of hate incidents against Asians in the U.S. since the start of the coronavirus pandemic. → Read More

Chronicles of a Bubble-Tea Addict

Boba and I spent our adolescence as scrappy, enterprising immigrants at America’s periphery. For a new generation, it’s a ubiquitous, Instagram-friendly mark of Asian identity. → Read More

China’s Arrest of a Free-Speech Icon Backfires in Hong Kong

The arrest of Jimmy Lai, the most high-profile case under China’s Draconian new law, instead of demoralizing Lai’s employees and supporters, has reinvigorated defiance. → Read More

Telling the Stories of the Protests Here and in Hong Kong

Jiayang Fan writes about covering the pro-democracy protests in Hong Kong, watching protests unfold around the U.S. following the killing of George Floyd, and the similarities between Donald Trump’s and Xi Jinping’s approaches to civil unrest. → Read More

Amid the Pandemic, Is Hong Kong Facing a Different Kind of Death?

With the latest proposed security legislation, if Hong Kongers dare to question Beijing’s narratives, they are liable to be accused of subversion. → Read More

The Uncertain Life of New York City’s Immigrant Uber Drivers During the Pandemic

Jiayang Fan on how the coronavirus pandemic is ravaging the lives and livelihoods of immigrant rideshare drivers in New York City. → Read More