Jiayang Fan
The New Yorker
New York, NY, United States
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Past articles by Jiayang:
The More-Is-More Pizzazz of Gugu Room
The Filipino-Japanese izakaya, on the Lower East Side, has an eclectic, expansive menu that includes porcine skewers portable enough to carry onto the dance floor. → Read More
Intrepid Playfulness at Nudibranch
The East Village restaurant, named for a category of sea slugs, offers an Asian-inflected prix-fixe menu with many choices, including fried frogs’ legs, shrimp with jazzy granola, and cauliflower three ways. → Read More
Asian American Women Fight Back
Jiayang Fan speaks with Asian American women and femmes who attended Soar Over Hate’s free self-defense class about safety and their personal concerns regarding the rise in violence against people of Asian descent. → Read More
Delightful Discoveries at Hawksmoor
For its ninth outlet, in Gramercy Park, the upscale U.K. steak-house group pulled out all the stops, with a menu featuring mammoth slabs of charcoal-grilled meat. → Read More
An Opulent Korean Tasting Menu, at Jua
At this prix-fixe restaurant, in the Flatiron district, the point seems to be less about making Korean flavors more palatable to the masses than about dislodging the cuisine from its association with proletarian presentation. → Read More
An Understanding of Millennial Asian Taste, at Hupo
The Sichuanese restaurant in Long Island City offers drink specialties including brown-sugar milk tea and an Uji-matcha latte, as well as such solid culinary standbys as Chongqing roasted fish and braised-beef noodle soup. → Read More
The Culinary Playground of Fulgurances Laundromat
The current chef-in-residence at this Greenpoint restaurant, which encourages a spirit of experimentation, is Aaron Rosenthal, a Boston native who was the executive chef of Clamato, a sister restaurant of Septime, in Paris. → Read More
The Merry Eclecticism of Thai Street Food at Soothr
The East Village restaurant has grown its menu to reflect offerings at the bustling food stalls of Bangkok’s Chinatown, such as Had Yai chicken and the shrimp-and-egg dish Koong Karee. → Read More
The Scent of Spices, and Vegan Pho, at Bánh
Nhu Ton, the chef of a Vietnamese restaurant on the Upper West Side, experimented for countless hours to make her traditional and her vegan pho taste like the place where she grew up. → Read More
The Evolution of an Empire, at Momofuku Ssäm Bar
The latest incarnation of David Chang’s maverick sophomore effort, which once defined the East Village food scene, now resides in an L.E.D.-lit behemoth in the South Street Seaport. → Read More
Chinese Dishes from Fertile Jiangnan, at CheLi
The East Village restaurant serves drunken crab, smoked fish, and other specialties, some of which were, according to lore, born of a Qing-dynasty emperor’s tours of the region south of the Yangtze River. → Read More
A Boldness of Vision at Little Mad
At the NoMad restaurant, the chef Sol Han’s Korean-inflected cuisine seems determined to establish its own identity, with dishes such as the crispy pig-ear salad, and rice with mushrooms and bone marrow scraped tableside. → Read More
Seafood Towers at Margie’s in the Rockaways
The flagship restaurant of the new Rockaway Hotel offers unfussy dishes such as mac and cheese, burrata, and mussels, as well as lobster toast and early-season heirloom tomatoes as fresh as the oysters and cherrystone clams. → Read More
The Gatekeepers Who Get to Decide What Food Is “Disgusting”
At the Disgusting Food Museum, in Sweden, where visitors are served dishes such as fermented shark and stinky tofu, I felt both like a tourist and like one of the exhibits. → Read More
The Atlanta Shooting and the Dehumanizing of Asian Women
Jiayang Fan writes about the mass murder of six Asian women in Atlanta and the rising rate of hate incidents against Asians in the U.S. since the start of the coronavirus pandemic. → Read More
Chronicles of a Bubble-Tea Addict
Boba and I spent our adolescence as scrappy, enterprising immigrants at America’s periphery. For a new generation, it’s a ubiquitous, Instagram-friendly mark of Asian identity. → Read More
China’s Arrest of a Free-Speech Icon Backfires in Hong Kong
The arrest of Jimmy Lai, the most high-profile case under China’s Draconian new law, instead of demoralizing Lai’s employees and supporters, has reinvigorated defiance. → Read More
Telling the Stories of the Protests Here and in Hong Kong
Jiayang Fan writes about covering the pro-democracy protests in Hong Kong, watching protests unfold around the U.S. following the killing of George Floyd, and the similarities between Donald Trump’s and Xi Jinping’s approaches to civil unrest. → Read More
Amid the Pandemic, Is Hong Kong Facing a Different Kind of Death?
With the latest proposed security legislation, if Hong Kongers dare to question Beijing’s narratives, they are liable to be accused of subversion. → Read More
The Uncertain Life of New York City’s Immigrant Uber Drivers During the Pandemic
Jiayang Fan on how the coronavirus pandemic is ravaging the lives and livelihoods of immigrant rideshare drivers in New York City. → Read More